Friday, February 29, 2008

to the edges of rajasthan and back

well it is friday evening and i am sitting at my homestay house, crosslegged on the floor because that is how most people do it here in india. the family's pug is curled up at my feet trying to scratch herself, but cant reach because apparently she is pregnant. it was a really hectic and beautiful week traveling india, but i must say i am happy to be home. bikanir wa a very strange city that was barely touched by tourists, so we were stared at with renewed vigour. on our first day in the city we went out exploring and found that it is a hugely hectic and rather dirty part of india. smelled like garbage, but was really interesting to walk through because people werent in business to sell to tourists like a lot of places in jaipur are. we found a whole street of the city devoted to fresh produce stands, and between the vegetables and the sacks full of spices, it was breath-takingly bright and colotful. we ate dinner as a group of 16 and afterwards, rather exhausted my friend jesse and i went off to find water and these strange indian cookies called bourbons. i find that i glow in the dark, because even in the dead of night people still manage to identify me as a white girl, and yell strange things in my direction. i think the best comment yet had to be in jaisalmere where a shop owner just looked at us and yelled "namaste, make your eyes happy?". the next day we were all entirely surprised when we visited an ngo dealing with poverty, drought, and health issues in the bikanir area. after our talk with the gentleman heading the operation, we all piled into taxis and were shuttled off into the desert. we ended up in a small rural village where no one spoke english and all of the homes were made of mud and sticks. there were goats running around wildly, and there were stretches of brambled dust for miles on either side. we were led into a small classroom where we were greeted by all the women and some of the men and children in the village. each woman was clothed in bright dresses, and had beautiful and bright scarves wrapped around their bodies and covering their faces. they sang a welcome song to us and we got to tour the school that the ngo had set up for the children in the village. the scene and the singing were so moving, and so starkly different from what we had seen before that most of us were just stunned into silence...or tears. the moment that the men left the women surrounded us girls and we began our long and entertaining afternoon of sign language. we traded jewelry, saw their houses, and just stood their holding hands with some of the most beautiful and unique women i have ever met. when we asked for a bathroom we were led to a small hut made entirely of sticks and with a dust floor where we just peed on the floor. some of us were attacked by baby goats as we peed which i must say only made the process more difficult. after goats milk chai, and a solid ten minutes of squating with the men and goats, we made our way out of the desert and back towards the much needed showers.
the next morning on our way out we stopped at the fort palace in bikanir as well as a milk factory though i am still a bit puzzled about that one. we drove until we reached jodhpur, and found that the staff was putting us up in a GORGEOUS little hotel in the city. it was like an oasis, with flowering trees, and palms. there were ornate little benches, and beautiful balconies, and best of all...a bathtub. that evening joanna, edgar adn i made an attempt at finding a grocery store to get some dinner, but found fruit stands instead. using our minimal hindi we managed to grab some bananas (kaylay) and pomagranates and papaya (papita). we were laughed at. we got honey, curd ( sort of yogurty thing) and corn flakes. (i dont know why, but cornflakes are huge here. people seem to adore white wonderbread, and corn flakes.) we made our little dinner on the balcony of one of the rooms, and then i proceded to take a long bath and pass out.
the next day we traveled to a grueling three ngo's, while many of the people on the trip got food poisoning. all i do is pray for my health, and so far so good, but there are a lot of unavoidable dangers out there. we ate dinner on the rooftop of the fort overlooking the city, and i ate meat for the first time since the plane to india, it was unimpressive. the fort was spectacular and when we walked it during the day we were able to see over all of the blue city of jodhpur. today was one of the more miserable on the trip seeing as it involved 8 hours in the car with limited AC and the hot desert sun beating down on us.
so overall it was a wonderful week if not a bit overwhelming. I am so thankful to be home and somewhere i can unpack for more than a day. sorry this post was so wordy... i didnt journal this week for myself so i am trying to remember everything for later. again, much love and thank you for all of your comments and emails!

Friday, February 22, 2008

24 hour, full power

It has been a lovely week of learning hindi and spending time in Jaipur. This week started out beautifully with a trip to the old city to find a tailor. we spent the afternoon sitting in a 300 year old house that looked like something out of a movie, it was entirely open on the inside, and you could climb stairs and stand out on the roof overlooking the city. it is amazing how easy it is to explore, and meet people in a country where you everyone lives their lives in the open. we stood on the roof with the kids and just basked in the beauty that is jaipur. afterwards, i had the joy of going to part one of three of an indian wedding. thankfully joanna and ian were able to join so as a band of white people we took the dance floor and made absolute asses out of ourselves. Indian dance is so intense and beautiful, there are facial expressions that go along with finger movements. of course since we were the only white ones there, they had to train the camera right on us, so incase we wanted to forget, everyone and their families will be watching that wedding video for the rest of their lives. Indian weddings are far and above anything in the states. the whole point is to be as loud and colorful and energetic as possible. everyone wears their most sparkling sari's, and there is fabric and lights and food for miles. we had a fantastic time to say the least, and seeing as "wedding season" is the nine months of the year when the wedding god it not sleeping, we have a good chance of going to a few more.
the next night i did my first serious batch of laundry in a bucket. its one of those things that makes me appreciate appliances, because when all of your underwear come out feeling like cardboard, you would give an arm and a leg for some fabric softener, and a dryer.
this friday all 16 of us left school, packed a bag for a week, and at midnight, hopped a 15 hour train to jaisalmere. Jaisalmere is a desert city surprisingly close to pakistan, with a BEAUTIFUL fort made of light yellow stone, and that was built 800 years ago. the fort is still lived in, and to this day you can walk through it and shop at little hole in the wall stores with fabric pouring off the shelves. we arrived half way through the day on saturday after a train ride that will probably haunt me for years to come. we chose to travel like only students and natives do, which means in a sleeper train with hundreds of bunks facing each other, and a whole mess of army men. i fell asleep to the sound of someone singing in hindi and the horrid snores of a train full of men. to be honest i was happier when they were alseep, because if they were awake they tended to just sit in silence and stare at us. my friend arianna woke up at 2 am to a man standing at the foot of ber bunk looking at her...she is blonde, poor girl.
when we arrived in jaisalmere we checked into a small hotel that helped us hook up with a camel safari, and sent us out into the desert. we all rode camels out into the sand dunes which is hilarious because camels, while being really peaceful and content looking, make some of the most hilarious noises i have ever heard. they all have anklets and bells around their necks, and many have really pretty patterns shaved into their fur. to be honest we are pretty sure that camels are just as effective as a form of population control as much as a mode of transportation, and i for one have been limping around for two days. when we got out into the middle of nowhere we then made a fire and ate dinner. we spent most of the night in the desert just talking about how amazing it was to be in the desert. words can hardly do the experience justice. the next day we spent in the city, and mostly inside the fort. we made quick friends with a guy named cool raoul who took us around and made us laugh histerically. we ate lunch overlooking the city in a small restaurant and basically just took it easy and talked about the way of the world. I am lucky to be here with such amazing and independent people. its like everyone is here to find themselves, and find their passion in life, and that leaves no time for social issues. that night we went back into the city to get dinner, and found ourselves sitting in a three person window alcove that stuck out from the wall of the city and was entirely open. we got to eat dal and paneer overlooking all of jaisalmere and it was the perfect way to end our trip.
again we got on a train and today at 5 am we ended up in bikanir which is a bizarre little town that pales in comparison to the beauty and charm of jaisalmere. we are here and in jodhpur for the week to see some ngo's and spend time in an area of the country where water conservation is a huge issue. i must say that showering out of a bucket is a stellar way to conserve water, and you havent really lived until you have done so.
much love from india, and thank you to everyone who has been sending me emails it is amazing to hear from you all. much love.

Sunday, February 17, 2008

oh dear taj

so this weekend was delightful because myself and seven other girls made a trip to agra to view the taj mahal. for all of you who were forced to see it in art history class, let me just say that it really deserves its wonder of the world title. We spent yesterday traveling around agra and walked through a park that just took my breath away. it was the beautiful india that people imagine when they think of sprawling greens and flowers and palm trees. we spent the evening debating karma with our rickshaw driver, who actually let me drive the rickshaw, and then headed back to the hotel for dinner. we ate on a rooftop restaurant with a view of the taj, which was rather pointless seeing as it was dark, but we got to look down over the streets of agra at least. Dinner was fantastic and afterwards we all fell into our dingy beds and pretended to sleep while all of agra seemed to be attempting to forcefully wake us. the hotel was a minor disaster, but we were surprisingly all used to toilets that didnt flush and blankets that maybe covered us to our bellybuttons. for some odd reason the sink drained directly onto the floor where you were standing, so any experience in the bathroom was a bit of a hazzard. We ended up waking at 5:15 and walked in the dark to the taj mahal so that we could see it at sunrise. It was unbelievable. I must say it is the only work of architecture that almost made me want to cry. it is stunning, and somehow it almost hurt to walk away from it. Since we were there early it wasnt crowded at all, so we had a lot of time to peacefully contemplate what sort of deep love could have driven a man to spend 22 years and 70 million dollars on a building for his dead wife. everyone we met kept saying that india is a symbol of love because the taj is here, and after experiencing it myself, i must agree.

there are so many sights i wish i could explain, and ones i know no one will be able to understand. we drove to and from agra in a taxi that comfortably fit 7 without bags, but we managed to cram 9 plus bags in. daniella and i sat facing the rear which was an experience because most of the traffic consisted of motorcycle drivers and camels who had every chance to ride behind us for miles at a time just staring and blowing kisses. we managed to see two men on a motorcycle, one of whom was holding a goat with its stiff little legs popping out at strange angles. that should give you some idea of how mixed up everything is. the ride was lovely and we drove full speed down the pot-holed highway listening to really loud bollywood music, basking in the desert sun.
much love!

Friday, February 15, 2008

Inscense and patent leather

So yesterday was valentines day in india, and it was a sight to behold. I tried to post yesterday, and it doesnt seem that it worked. if it did and i am repeating myself, i am so sorry, but if not, here is an account of the last few days of my life.
School is different every day, and its really relaxed which is such a plus. I have a regular rickshaw walla who picks me up at 8 and we drive to joannas house to get her. For those of you who are wondering, rickshaws are little three wheeled golfcart like things that make a racket, and dont go faster than 30 km/hr. in fact, none of the traffic goes faster than that. two days ago we walked to a fancy hotel and sat on a bench facing a beautiful courtyard and got drinks. I think it was a beautiful time to decompress and just see a peaceful, very touristy area of india without any harassment. India is so hard to explain, and i am sorry if i am doing a poor job of it. If you can imagine, there are people everywhere, and there is never silence. There are many more men in the city, and especially out in the streets, so most of the time we are being stared at or cat called to. what is funny are the phrases, and some of the things that people will do just to get our phone numbers. The roads are a mix of pavement and dust, and the sidewalks, if they exist, are mostly blown apart and reduced to rubble. The women that are out in the streets wear the most unbelievable colors, and rajasthan is known for its vibrant clothes and jewelry. So mostly it is desert, with really exotic looking plants peeking out from the gardens, and then amazing saris and salwar suits. Other than that, there are dogs and pigs, and cows everywhere, piles of trash line most of the streets, and people tend to use the bathroom wherever they see fit. Everyone spits because everyone chews pan, so the roads have bright red stains all over them. there are beggers and vendors everywhere so it is hard to walk down the street witout being accosted. The other night we were standing waiting for the rickshaw, and were targeted by two small girls. they were beggars and one of them had a fistfull of heart shaped balloons which she used more as a weapon than a selling point. For 20 minutes the girls tried to touch my feet, which, if anyone might already know, made me want to pass out. It was a strange mix of sadness and frustration that this goes on constantly. This country is so beautiful, but so frustrating sometimes!! people never show up on time, and just because I am white, i am immediately expected to pay 6 times the amount that others have to pay, so instead of being able to buy a drink, i have to bargain for a drink. Those of youi with access to a CVS, count your blessings.
The other thing that i am not sure i explained in depth is the indian toilet. It was made very clear from the start that we were no long allowed the luxury of toilet paper, and this includes in homes and in school. The system here is to gracefully spray yourself with a provided hose, and hope for the best. I, having no coordination, tend to walk out a little flustered, and horrifyingly wet. its embarrasing to say the least ,but is the topic of constant conversation among us in the group.
Valentines day was low key, we walked to a little coffee place and got coffee which tasted a lot like india, and not like coffee. everything here takes on a spicy flavor, and the "sweets" are mostly made of milk. we spent a few moments mourning the loss of cheese, wine, and chocolate, which are rare here, and toasted to the romantic holiday. I would sell some of my fingers for a good piece of chocolate, but felt a little better when we climbed into our rickshaw on the way home, and sat on bright blue patent leather seats and rode home in a fog of inscense...i think india is worth it.
anyway, we are heading to the taj mahal this weekend which will be a healthy tourist romp, so i am looking forward to it. i am heading to an indian wedding tonight, so i have to sign off. So much love, and so many thanks for all of the emails and notes. It means the world to me.
I will try and post photos soon, and until then, happy valentines day.

Monday, February 11, 2008

home sweet home

Well, saturday marked the first day of my homestay with my new family. I have two parents, and a 13 year old brother who is very good at english and who translates everything for me. We help each other out because i teach him english, and he sits on the floor with me and helps me read the hindi newspapers. he is endlessly sweet, and i feel really lucky to have someone around like him. i have an endless number of "relatives" who all manage to live in the area. They all stopped by at different points over the past two days, and though I cant remember anyones name, i had a blast trying to communicate with all of my aunts who wore bright pink sari's and most were missing teeth. I have been asked if i am married about 6 times, and the "domestic help" tend to make fun of me and pretend the 15 year old cook is in love with me. amusingly enough this has made him really nervous around me, and he managed to dump water on the table while trynig to pour me a glass. The customs in a huose are very different from the hotels, and I have had to get used to eating with my right hand, or not being able to pick up after myself. i have a room all to myself, but it does nothing to deter everyone from entering and moving all of my things around. I get fed every 20 minutes and am starting to feel that i will expend more energy on saying bus bus ( enough in hindi) than on anything else in this country. I have a dog named sweetie, she is a pug and is as wide as she is long. It makes me miss chloe, but there is nothing that can compete to a dog that eats chapatis for dinner.
One thing i am happy abuot is the fact that i learned how to play cricket yesterday, and hope to bring back the trend to the states....good sport. I am also planning to fly kites off the roof with my brother this afternoon when i get home. I am endlessly entertained by the camels in the street, and i am actually starting to get used to the people staring which i thought would never happen. Not much time left, so so long, and i hope people will write me emails, its nice to feel connected to home. LOVE!

Friday, February 8, 2008

mera naam jessica hee

So we are now learning hindi and taking classes about the history of rajasthan. The teachers are all indian and speak with beautiful if not difficult to understand accents. Class starts around 9 and we take open motor rickshaws to school in the morning. We get a chai break mid morning, and fresh indian food for lunch. the food is to die for, which is not so good for the long run seeing as its easy to eat yourself into a coma.
Yesterday we walked up to a fort/palace at the top of the city in the mountains and looked out over all of Jaipur. The city is huge, and even from the top of the mountain we could hear horns and a general din. The thing that is weirdest is that it is like a normal city, but there are animals everywhere. The cows are totally irreverent of the cars, and the dogs are painfully cute and probably rabid.
this afternoon we went looking for traditional clothes wich are a little hard to get used to. its like mc hammer pants and tunics. We all look a little funny. everything is insanely cheap though, and its easy to get a full beautiful outfit for about 20 dollars. today a little indian man biked us through the city to get to a plaza for the equivilant of 50 cents.
it is still amazing to me how different it is here but everyday we learn how to manage and tomorrow we head off to the homestays. It will be a very strange experience but i think i am ready to be part of a family that can show me how to get everythig that i need. WE still get to take rickshaws to school, and perhaps i will find a favorite chai walla.

Wednesday, February 6, 2008

hey everyone. here is my first hello from india and i have moved out of delhi and into jaipur where i will be living for the next few months. so far things have been unbelievable and a little bit jolting. the city is huge and beautiful in its own right, with a non stop stream of traffic and people. No matter where i go there are people watching and the Indians have no qualms with literally turning their heads to see us when we walk around. there arent a lot of tourists in the area so we really stand out. the city is a mixture of slums, homes, and palaces, and they are practically piled on top of each other. we are staying ni a guest house with an open terrace in the center and i have the luxury of taking a shower with a bucket every morning. the sounds are more strange than i could ever give them credit. There are cows, dogs, pigs, people, cars, and water buffalo all in the same place and they all seem to respect each others right to be there. the monkeys make a lot of noise while we try to sleep and apparently they killed the mayor of delhi so i think they may have rage issues as well. As a group we are all doing really well. there are 16 of us, mostly girls. what i love is that being here only abuot 3 days, i have already overcome so many of my reservations, and love just walking to explore the city. It is hard to find a balance because as a woman i am not supposed to look at the men because it will let them think i am available or want them to pursue me. Even when i look down it doesnt stop most of them, and for most of the time we get followed down the road by a mixture of strange men, rickshaw drivers, and beggars. There is a whole system here that no one has yet to figure out, and while so many people are really creepy and sort of molest us as we walk down the street, many are really interested in us and stop us to talk just because we are american. People speak a rough mizxture of english and hindi sometimes, and it has lead to many erally interesting and strange conversations. People always seem to want to lead us somewhere, or use us to get them visas, but i have learned that if you keep a good sense of humor about it, then they tend to just joke around. We are up in the north where we are close to the desert so it is dusty, and flanked by mountains, but there are also palm trees and blooming flowers everywhere. when we visited the school we would be giong to for the next two months, they gave us garlands of roses which smelled fantastic. the school's marble floors are now scattered with petals. The food is to die for, and we get chai from the street vendors for 5 rupees, which is around 12 cents. everythhing is so cheap and we are all desperately learning how to barder with the sales people who assume we know nothing and charge us about 10x as much as it should cost. So far things have been amazing and i am looking forward to settling into a homestay so that perhaps i wont be woken by geese every morning. I love and miss everyone and will try and keep in touch as much as i can.

Saturday, February 2, 2008

I leave this afternoon, and I thought I would test out this strange website.
I guess I love and miss you all already.